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The Pierre Cardin suit – having second thoughts about Vogue 1636

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Vogue 1636 Cardin
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Vogue 1636 Technical drawing
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Vogue 1636 Pattern book photograph

I am about to move on to this 1966 Pierre Cardin pattern, but having laid out the purple boucle wool that you can see on the right, I am having second thoughts. Here are my concerns

  • The skirt and jacket are cut on the bias
  • I don’t know what to trim the purple fabric with – white? silver pu? silver leather?
  • Due to the wonderful pointed front on the jacket it is not as versatile as more traditional shapes and won’t combine as nicely with other SWAP outfits
  • I like the blouse but the shoulders are very cut in which again is rather nice, but not really suitable for work except on a very hot day
  • A slight feeling that I ought to make this suit in a different fabric – possibly with a check to make the most of the bias, or a more vibrant colour.

Here are two Cardin dresses from the 1960s with a more extreme cut-in shoulder. It is a flattering look that I feel I could get away with – but not at work.

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Cardin cut-in shoulders 1
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Cardin cut-in shoulders 2

The dresses below show the use of contrasting colours by Cardin in the 1960s (colour blocked) . I love these looks and the strong colour palettes used. My purple looks a bit muted next to them (although the model picture for Vogue 1636 is shown in a soft light orange)

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Contrasting panels
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Striking colour choices
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Striking shapes

Finally here two final references. The first picture shows a Cardin suit from the same year made up in a purple check and it is easy to see the bias in this colourway. The light pink skirt and the base of the jacket in the second picture is also cut on the bias. I started a Cardin suit from the same year – 1966 – and while I made the skirt and wore it for a while I took it to the Charity shop after Christmas. I can’t say I really like wearing a bias cut skirt. So I never progressed to the jacket (which is very similar to this light pink one).

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Bias cut with checks
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Bias cut skirt suit

I haven’t decided against this suit yet. I do love it. I love my fabric too. I am itching to get started. It is radical but also quite conservative – which makes it very me. And yet. This may not be right outfit for me. I am going to delay getting started on this. I have sent for some silver leather swatches and I may make up the blouse for fun in another piece of fabric. Oh gosh. I would ask for advice but I on this occasion a split opinion will only reflect where my mind currently sits.

If I dump it I need another three piece set, and I will have to substitute another blouse pattern for the painted silk. Not too big an issue as I am doing draped blouses this term at Morley.


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